Icknield Way (by Robert)
There is a chain of gentle chalk hills stretching from the sea across England. People have used these hills to walk safely above dense forest and tricky marshes for over 4000 years. The braid of tracks that resulted is the Icknield Way - more of an idea than one well-defined trail. To learn more about this idea, I spent two days walking along the Way last week. My plan was to take a morning train to Baldock - a propitious place where the Icknield Way crosses the Northern Road (another ancient track) - and just walk back home to Cambridge. Baldock is now a sleepy bedroom community for London with a conspicuously oversized church giving away its former importance. The first day (28 miles) took me from Baldock via Therfield to a nice lunch in Royston. The churches along the way were great, all open for visitors to check out, some grander than others. Overall, I was surprise by how deserted this countryside is. The few pubs that exist are mostly closed on weekdays (when I was there),...